A JOURNAL BY SHINOLA DEDICATED TO JOY OF CRAFT

The Heritage of Leathercraft

BY Taylor Rebhan

Tanned in Milwaukee. Sewn in Missouri, New Jersey, and Florida. Shinola’s latest leather collection proves that the art of leathercraft is far from over in the USA.

Next to carpentry, leathercraft is one of the most ancient trades known to humankind. Since the dawn of time, we’ve used leather for clothing, shelter, and currency. Everything from satchels and sheaths to designer purses and car interiors have been crafted from the natural wonder that is leather.

It’s a tradition that’s 400,000 years long. And contrary to popular belief, it shows no signs of stopping in the United States.

Tanneries and manufacturers from the Midwest to the Sunshine State are preserving the skills and knowledge for a new generation of quality leathercraft. Case in point: Every piece in Shinola’s new USA Heritage Collection of leather goods is made from American leather and sewn in the United States.

NOTHING TO HIDE

It all starts with North American hides. USA Heritage Leather is distinctive. Rich with oils, this leather will change and darken over time—a process known as patina—and it burnishes and embosses beautifully. As the bag or leather good ages, its character will change with it.

USA Heritage Leather hides are aniline and semi-aniline dyed, far gentler and more natural than the use of pigments, plastic paints, and harsh chemicals. As a result, the natural and unique characteristics of each individual hide are visible, not covered up. These “beauty marks” – think scratches, scars, and even stretch marks—are perfectly natural. It may seem counterintuitive, but they are indicators of the quality treatment of the leather that bestows a luxurious hand feel. The grain is supple and highlighted from being tumbled in dye.

This is opposed to many retailers that use chemical treatments, which are sprayed on the surface and strip the leather of its natural suppleness and fill the surface with particles. While this process “fills in” and covers up imperfections, it adds an unpleasant synthetic touch to the finished product. There’s nothing more natural—or premium—than a naked leather.

The tanning process happens at Seidel Tannery in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, a fourth-generation family-owned business with 75 years of experience—ten of those years in partnership with Shinola. As a specialty tanner, Seidel’s leather is made-to-order, meaning Shinola leather is treated with a specific formula to fit the needs for the USA Heritage Collection.

All it takes is one touch of the leather—Seidel’s commitment to excellence speaks for itself in the texture, tone, and hand feel. All hides come from U.S. domestic markets, giving Seidel the highest quality raw materials in North America and a fully traceable supply chain.

PROUDLY HOME-SEWN

After tanning, the leather for this collection is sewn in the USA by our partners in Florida, New Jersey, and Missouri—each with a particular calling card in their leathercraft.

Just off the Mississippi River in St. Genevieve, Missouri, the folks at Eric Scott have been expertly cutting and sewing leather for over three decades. Like our partners at Roma Industries in Florida, they have contributed to the Shinola story from the very beginning of our foray into leather goods. Today, they take the lead in crafting a number of our items in the collection. The intersection between old world craftsmanship and the latest sewing technology results in thoughtfully crafted leather goods of all shapes and sizes.

From lanyards and key holders to passport wallets, the USA Heritage Collection benefits from Eric Scott’s close attention to detail and craftsmanship, creating a suite of everyday essentials that will put up with the rigors of everyday use—and only look all the better for it. It’s a purposeful design found in many of the pieces’ name: Utility.

Utility evokes classic detailing and simple archetypal hardware. It’s an aesthetic that’s both functional and stylish, rooted in an American design heritage. These bags and accessories are unlined, and it’s that very simplicity that reveals the complexity of the sewing techniques.

“Unlined leather has a unique way of breaking down and softening over time. It’s beautiful to see the craftsmanship and the stitching on the inside,” says Product Development Senior Manager Gabrielle Aldridge. It’s a fitting inspiration for a collection sourced, tanned, and sewn state-side.

We often take for granted the ubiquitous nature of leather as an essential material. The USA Heritage Collection invites a deeper look. These everyday items were created not just as practical accessories, but as a celebration of the art and hard-earned skill of American tanneries and leatherworkers.

May the tradition carry on for years to come.

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